Trade unions and environmental groups team up to expose deep flaws in
jewelry certification system
OTTAWA, WASHINGTON, D.C., GENEVA, SYDNEY, May 22, 2013 /CNW/ - In a new
report, More Shine Than Substance: How RJC Certification Fails to Create
Responsible Jewelry, an international coalition of labour and environmental groups indict the
Responsible Jewellery Council's certification system as misleading
jewelry consumers. The RJC holds its annual meeting in Milan on May 23.
"Jewelry is meant to lift our spirits. But it loses its value if it's
made with gold or diamonds that are tarnished by human rights abuses or
environmental destruction," said Earthworks' No Dirty Gold campaign
director Payal Sampat.
"Unfortunately, RJC's certification cannot reassure consumers that the
gems and precious metals that pass through its system did not come at
the cost of community health or clean water," Sampat said.
The groups releasing More Shine Than Substance include the trade union federation IndustriALL, which represents 50 million workers globally, CFMEU Australia, United Steelworkers, and environmental advocacy groups Earthworks and MiningWatch Canada.
More Shine Than Substance documents how the RJC's certification system offers little in the way of
real solutions to the serious human rights, labour and environmental
problems that caused RJC's formation.
The RJC board of directors consists exclusively of industry
representatives, with no representatives from impacted communities,
labour, or environmental organizations. This exclusion is in sharp
contrast to other, more robust, certification systems such as the
Forest Stewardship Council.
"RJC can't polish the image of gold and diamonds while keeping worker
and community representatives off the table," said Jyrki Raina, General
Secretary of IndustriALL in Geneva.
"Having the industry set its own standards and certify compliance is
rather like having the fox guard the henhouse. How can the public have
faith in such a process?" Raina said.
In the wake of campaigns targeting dirty gold and conflict diamonds, and
media exposés of the true environmental and social costs of these
minerals, jewelry companies recognized that their brands and
reputations were at risk. In response a coalition of jewelry trade
associations, retailers and their suppliers, including mining
companies, formed the Responsible Jewellery Council.
"If RJC is going to let its member companies claim 'responsible business
practices' for the corporation as a whole then all their operations
should adhere to RJC standards," said Ken Neumann, National Director
for Canada, United Steelworkers.
"Companies like Rio Tinto can't be RJC-certified as a whole, while
remaining a principal investor in mines like Grasberg in Indonesia that
don't meet RJC standards," Neumann said.
The Steelworkers represent workers at several Rio Tinto operations in
the U.S. and Canada. In 2012, Rio Tinto locked out 780 Steelworkers
members in Canada for six months.
The RJC system is riddled with loopholes relating to membership,
auditing and accountability. For example, the system allows a member
company as a whole to be certified as RJC compliant even when some of
its gold, platinum and diamond-producing facilities - or projects it is
invested in - are excluded from RJC audits.
The system also lacks transparency, with auditors' reports not made
public. Equally troubling, the RJC itself doesn't receive evidence or
detailed auditors' reports about operations that it certifies.
Several RJC standards are weak and violate widely accepted social and
environmental principles. Under the RJC Code, mining companies can
operate in conflict zones, fail to protect workers' rights to join
unions, and allow children as young as 14 to work. It also fails to
place limits on water and air pollution and allows toxic waste disposal
into lakes and ocean environments.
"Communities living near mines are fighting to protect their health,
livelihoods and social and cultural values that are threatened by
mining," said Catherine Coumans of MiningWatch Canada.
"Their efforts are undermined by the RJC system that certifies the
continuation of the status quo," Coumans added. "The RJC system does
not drive the fundamental change that is needed."
The report compares RJC's flaws to that of industry-defined and
controlled certification systems in other sectors, such as the
Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), which has come under heavy
criticism from green groups.
In contrast, the Forest Stewardship Council, which embraces
multi-stakeholder governance and strong standards, is widely considered
a more robust and credible system for certifying sustainable wood
"Without significant improvements, the RJC system risks tarnishing,
rather than burnishing, the reputations of its member companies," said
Payal Sampat of Earthworks.
The full report, More Shine Than Substance, is available at www.usw.ca, or at http://bit.ly/RJC-MoreShineThanSubstance
A fact sheet on the report also is available at www.usw.ca, or http://bit.ly/RJC-FS-MoreShine
SOURCE: United Steelworkers (USW)
For further information:
Joe Drexler, United Steelworkers, 416-434-7907, 416-544-6009, firstname.lastname@example.org
Payal Sampat, Earthworks, 202-247-1180, earthworksaction.org
Catherine Coumans, MiningWatch Canada, 613-569-3439, miningwatch.ca
Cherisse Fredericks, IndustriALL, +41-22 -308-5023, industriall-union.org